EXPLANATION OF THE READOUTS

PgNo#: Official horse program number

ML: Official morning line odds

Horse Name: This is obvious!

TTR: This is my original True Tender rating.   I have updated it and made it even stronger.  The winner will usually be among the top 4 or 5 listed horses.  Look for gaps in the ratings from the 4th or 5th.  If the ratings are all close, they are not as strong as a race where there is a nice gap after the first few horses.  If a horse has never raced it will get 000.0 N/R (No Rating).  When you read the Menu Choice explanation later in this manual read about setting the TTR rating.

TTC: If there is a “C” in this box, the horse is a contender for WIN based on the above True Tender Ratings.  This makes it easier to spot the contenders.  On the PRINTOUT, the “C” will just appear after the TTR number.

SNAP1: This is the first of the MAIN readouts.  The horses are sorted on this rating.  SNAP1 is a speed rating based on what the horse is capable of doing, along with what it currently has been doing.  SNAP1 has very strict rules, and is very strong.  It does not allow for bad racing luck or any “excuses”.  It is based on the idea that if a horse runs into trouble in the past, it can happen again.

SNAP2: This is figured much like SNAP1, except it can be a bit more “forgiving”.  It will skip a race or two if there is a good reason for the horse having a bad outing.  Many times however, you will see the horses SNAP1 and SNAP2 rating match.  That is good.  When you see a horse listed near the middle or bottom on SNAP1, but it has the best or a very good SNAP2 (compared to the rest of the horses), take a closer look at this horse, as the low SNAP1 may be due to a legitimate excuse.  Many times these horses will win and pay well.

SNAP3: This is VERY unique rating.  Snap3 will convert all races AND workouts to a speed figure, so that races and workouts are compared on an “apple to apple” basis.  So if horse A has run in the past, but horse B is a first timer with only workouts shown, you will see a final rating that is totally equalized!  SNAP3 was originally intended to be used for Maidens, but the more testing I have done, the more I have seen it do well in ALL type races, including TURF.  So if you play exotic type bets, keep an eye on the top SNAP3.  And for first timers, before you throw them out, be sure their SNAP3 is not showing them to be a threat.

SNAP4: This is a strong rating based on everything from SNAP CAP PRO plus a whole lot more!  (In SNAP CAP, this rating was called POWER).  When you see a horse with a big SNAP4 rating gap, it is a strong handicapping indicator.

CLASS:  This is a class rating based on each horse’s earnings. High is best.  Always be alert of horses with a BIG class advantage that show nothing on the other ratings.  It may be taking a big class drop or just be a “sleeper”.

Kspd: This rating is based on my “K-Speed” method.  It is based on the “pace of the horse” plus “pace of the race”.  Keep an eye on horses among the top 2 or 3 that are 6-1 and higher in odds!  Hits great longshots.

FG: This is based on my FG method.  In this computerized version, the best horse gets a 0.00.  Then the rest of the horses are rated off of that. The scores are in tenths, so each .1 is ½ length.  In other words, the TOP FG gets 0.00.  If the next horse had a 0.20, that is saying this horse is 1 length behind.  A horse with 1.00 would be 5 lengths behind. A horse with a 2.00 would be 10 lengths behind.  Now this is not saying how the horses will actually be positioned in this race.  It is based on how the horse ran its last race, and what it ran against.  So it is really telling you how much gas the horse will have left in the tank at the second call of today’s race.  Horses that are TOP in FG (0.00) are very strong when the second best is1.50 to 2.00 and up.  Also, FG can hit some HUGE payouts!  As you can tell, in FG, LOW is best.

SPACE: Based on my SPACE method, it uses the speed rating AND second call time of the race.  It is my belief that the faster a horse runs early, the lower it final time will be. Thus, if 2 horses ran a 6 furlong race and both received a 90 speed rating, but one horse ran against a 44 second call, and the other ran against a 45, the horse that ran against the 44 is a faster and stronger horse.  SPACE adjusts for all distances.  Some SPACE users say they just dutch the top 2 SPACE horses and do very well.  Some just play the top 2 when they are both 3-1 and up.  Others play any of the top 2 at 5-1 and up and do VERY well.

CLACE-R: This rating is based on CLASS and PACE…Thus CLACE!  Clace-R uses very recent races.  This rating is stronger in HIGH class races.  The model will show you which tracks CLACE excels at and what type races.

CLACE-B: This is almost the same as above, except CLACE-B is based on the Best rating the horse has showing, not just the most recent ones.  When a horse is top in both CLACE-R and CLACE-B, it makes the rating much stronger.  Keep an eye open in higher class races when a horse is top in both, and is going of at higher odds.

MC: This is really an entire method in itself.  The number you see is a final rating based on factors such as earnings, speed, pace, workouts, recency, positions, on and on!  By hand, this method takes about ½ hour a race.  If a horse has a “ZERO” MC rating, that means it was eliminated by one of the MC rules.  High is best.  Even races with first time starters…even if the race is all first timers… will have an MC rating.  The method is different for maiden and non maidens.  But in a maiden race, you can easily compare a maiden that has run before to one that never ran in its life!

JOCKEY: This is the jockey win percentage using the largest total number of races for this jockey found in the file.

TRAINER: This is the trainer win percentage using the largest total number of races found for this trainer in the file.

P-1: This is a power rating is based on most of the ratings in URTI. It looks at each column, and gives 6 points to the top pick, 5 to the second pick, 4 to the third pick, 3 to the 4^th pick, 2 to the 5^th pick and finally 1 point to the 6^th pick.  It does this for most columns, then it totals the score. High is best.  Let me give a very basic example.  Say there is a horse that ias 1st in CLASS, and 7^th or worse in everything else.  Then it would get 6 points for being first in class, but nothing else.  Thus its P1 rating would be 6.

P-2: This Power 2 rating is based on all of the same factors as P1, however points are awarded differently.  The TOP horse in each category gets 10 points, and the second best horse in each category gets 5 points.  Nothing for 3^rd or worse.  Then the points are totaled and that is the P2 rating.  So if a horse was top in 3 columns, and third or worse in everything else, it would get 30 for a P2 rating.

SP: This is SPEED POINTS  based on Quirin speed points found in the BRIS file.  At some tracks, you will see that many of your LOSING bets come from horses that have 0 or 1 SP.  Thus this would be a good way to eliminate some of your bad plays.  Also, if a horse is top in FG, and has the highest Speed points number in this race, it runs very well!

B3S: (Best 3 Speed) This is a speed average using the horses past 5 races.  Then, the highest and lowest of the past 5 are thrown out, and the remaining 3 are averaged.  That will give a horse an “out” for a poor speed rating, and also not over emphasize those horses that occasionally throw in 1 good race with a very suspicious high number.  Other rules are followed in cases where a horse has less than 5 races.

F2S: This stands for Fraction 2 speed.  It is based on the SECOND FRACTION (not second call) along with the final time of the race.  High is best.

DAYS:  This shows the number of days since the horse last raced.  The number in parenthesis next to this is the amount of workouts the horse has run since its last race.

     Using the Top 3 Snap1 and Top 3 Snap4 horses is a good basic way of getting contenders, and at many tracks, even a large model will still show you to stick to that.  But I always look at my database.  Under “NUMBER OF HORSES DEEP”, I will select 3.  Then I will look at sprints first, and then at routes separately.  I will break it down by turf and dirt.  Some tracks show me that instead of using the top 3 Snap 1 and Snap 4 for contenders, I am better off using the top 3 B3S and top 3 Snap2.  Or in some races use certain horses, in other races use different horses. So these are the horses I will use in place of what Joe put in the betting manual.  And these would be the horses I would use in pick 3’s and daily doubles.  I will also see how the top 2 horses do in various categories, so I can also make smaller pick 3 and daily double bets.

So again, if you really want to get the most out of URTI, and make long term profits like I do, you really need to use the model feature.  I gave you quick and easy ways of playing WITHOUT using the model, and if you are happy with that level of play, then that is fine.  Not everyone wants to turn this into a full time business.  But for those of you that really do want this to be a business of its own, you need to use the URTI model!

I am not trying to mislead you and tell you that you will win every day.  Of course there are bad days when nothing goes right.  Fortunately not many of those bad days exist with URTI!  But usually I find when URTI “misses” a horse, it’s one of those races that we should be passing as all the ratings are close.   That is an example of what I mean when I said to use just a little logic.  Don’t try to “force” a bet!

I know URTI can make every player successful.  I have done my best to make the program the greatest ever, and have tried to give you as much advice in this manual to succeed.  95% of the work is done for you.  You just need to add the last 5%.  Treat this like a business, not a gamble.  If you owned a business, you would not go out and buy bad stock just for the heck of it.  So don’t waste money on races that URTI does not give you a clear picture if, just for the heck of it.  Stay sharp.  Don’t bet more than you are comfortable with.  If you are nervous making a bet, you are betting too much.  And that will lead you to failure.  So wager what you feel secure with, and let it build on its own.  If you are patient you will succeed.  I really hope you build a large model at your track and use it.  With that in hand, you will find nothing but profits, and know when to stay away from the plays that are burning you.

Stay alert, have fun, and make lots of money!

Sincerely,

Tom Console